Showing posts with label os. Show all posts
Showing posts with label os. Show all posts

The Best Mac Apps of 2015 (And Our Favorite Updates) | Dramel Notes

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It has been a good year for Mac users. There was the new MacBook, OS X got that smooth El Capitan update, and Apple Music hit iTunes. And while Apple was bringing all that to the table, developers were busy bees too.

Brilliant calendar apps, feature-rich Twitter apps, a whole new Office experience, and a sassy way to find out the weather, were just some of the best OS X apps released or updated this year. Let’s dive in to find the cream of the crop.

CARROT Weather ($11.99)

I ran an unscientific poll among regular Mac users and 6 out of 9 people picked CARROT Weather as their app of the year. If you haven’t yet installed it, that’s reason enough. It’s a snarky, personality-driven weather app that is a great example of how technology can be useful as well as entertaining. You’ll get detailed weather updates, notification center widgets, keyboard shortcuts, and even a synced iOS app.

Justin summed up everything you’ll love about it in one line: “CARROT is her usual psychopathic self, keeping you informed about both the weather and your own insignificance.”

Helium for Mac OS X (Free)

Sometimes, small apps solve a problem you didn’t even know you had, and then you can’t imagine using your computer without it. Helium is one of those nifty little tools. It’s a browser window that floats on top of other windows, and it’s ideal for watching videos while doing other things on your screen. It has a low footprint and hardly takes any memory. It’s super-simple to use, and can even be set to be translucent.

Microsoft Office 2016 ($9.99/month or $149.99 one-off)

We got a whole new version of Microsoft Office this year, and although there were some installation problems initially, Office 2016 is now pretty stable. There’s lots of new stuff in Office 2016 for Mac, like integration with OneDrive, a complete design overhaul (it looks gorgeous now), and small additions like the Design tab in Word or the Presenter window in Powerpoint for reading notes privately while you do your presentation. Danny covered everything that’s new in Office 2016 so check it out if you need a powerful office app.

Malwarebytes Anti-Malware (Free)

Look, Mac is safer than Windows, but it’s not 100% safe. You can still get malware or a virus on OS X. How do you find out? Malwarebytes for Mac, released this year, is a free tool to scan your hardware for malicious elements and remove them easily. This is a new version of the popular Adware Medic tool, which Malwarebytes bought, along with its creator Thomas Reed who runs one of the best Mac security blogs around. You’re safe with this one.

CleanMyDrive 2 (Free)

Your Mac creates a lot of garbage files in its daily operation. You don’t see them, but they’re there. The one you’re probably most familiar with is a DS_Store file. It’s difficult and tedious to get rid of these. The original CleanMyDrive cleaned up so you don’t have to, and the new version does that and more. Sitting in the Mac Menubar, it shows you the junk on all your drives (even USB-connected ones) and offers to clean it, lets you eject everything with one click, and has easy drag-and-drop to transfer files from one drive to another. Very handy if you need to copy stuff to your flash drive!

Dictater (Free)

Apple’s built-in text-to-speech function is pretty great, but weirdly, OS X doesn’t have any interface for you to actually control it. Dictater is the solution Apple should have built into Mac OS X. It’s a simple app that lets you choose any text and have your Mac read it out. You can pause, rewind, and fast-forward by sentences or paragraphs; replay sentences; and use it as a teleprompter too. Setup Dictater correctly and it’ll be one of your favorite tools.

Reeder 3 ($9.99)

It was a sad day when Reeder died and we needed alternative RSS readers. Well, Reeder is back and it’s better than ever. It sports a gorgeous new UI that complements El Capitan’s flat look, and is stuffed with features. Reeder supports most RSS feed services; third-party sharing for Pocket, Instapaper, Buffer, and others; a new private browsing mode; and gesture support for the trackpad. Yeah, it’s not cheap, but it’s the best.

Bartender 2 ($15)

Bartender is one of the most popular tools to tidy up your Menubar. Bartender 2 is a visual makeover that goes great with El Capitan, and lets you create a second, custom menubar that is hidden most of the time. There are a few neat additions in version two, such as keyboard shortcuts to access the hidden menu, and a new search bar to locate what you want quickly.

Barsoom ($7)

If that’s too expensive, consider Barsoom. Justin compared Bartender and a bunch of other tools while figuring out apps to clean up your Menubar, and really liked Barsoom. Much like Bartender, it lets you hide apps in your menubar, add icons that OS X doesn’t show by default, and can even get rid of the text menus on the top-left for a while. All for half the price of Bartender.

Fantastical 2 ($49.99)

Yeah, Fantastical is a great calendar app, but should you pay $50 for it? Well, Harry thinks so, and with good reason. Fantastical integrates with all your calendar services like Google Calendar, iCloud and so on, changing with the tap of a key. It works on iOS too, for cross-platform ease and supports Continuity. It uses natural language commands, looks gorgeous, has a helpful “Today” view, and it’s pretty much the last calendar app you’ll ever need.

Any.Do (Free)

Well it’s about time! After being one of the best to-do list apps on Android, iPhone, Chrome, and all other platforms, Any.Do finally got a native Mac OS X app this year. There are two aspects that make Any.Do a must-have for Mac users. It integrates with the notification center so you never miss an important update, and it has a menubar icon to quickly add tasks.

The best to-do list should get out of the way 90% of the time, and work smartly when you want to add a task or it needs to remind you of one. That’s what Any.Do is all about.

Move to Apple Music ($4.99)

Apple’s biggest non-hardware announcement this year was Apple Music, a new streaming music platform. If you’ve switched to Apple Music but were already using Spotfiy or Rdio, then you probably want to bring your old playlists with you. The simplest way to do it is a small dedicated app called Move to Apple Music. The app costs five bucks, but you can try it for free first to check if it’s working for you. It’s dead simple, it gets the job done, and you’ll soon be sharing and discovering playlists on Apple Music.

Unclutter ($5.99)

This is one of those tools I wish came with Mac OS X. Unclutter is an organizational tool for OS X, which sits in your menubar. When you take your cursor to the menubar, it slides down to reveal three panels: clipboard, drop zone, and notepad. Use them like you would normally use a clipboard, drop zone, or a notepad. Unclutter just makes it convenient. It supports Dropbox for backups and I only wish it was free.

Tweetbot 2 for Mac ($9.99)

Tweetbot was yet again our pick for the best Twitter app for iOS, and that extends to the Mac version following the new version released this year. If you’re a Twitter power user, this is the app you need, especially given how woefully out-of-date the Twitter for Mac app is. Tweetbot gives you multiple columns and windows, allows you to mute users, hashtags, or keywords, supports third-party apps, includes a powerful search feature, and looks gorgeous doing it all.

Tether (Free)

Tether is one of the easiest ways of protecting your Mac from snooping colleagues and family. It uses your iOS device and pairs it with your Mac using Bluetooth. Set your Mac to automatically lock when it’s far from your iOS device; when you’re back, it’ll unlock automatically. Simple, efficient and free. There are other options to unlock your Mac with fingerprint or Bluetooth too, if Tether doesn’t float your boat.

TripMode ($7.99)

Mobile data is costly. So when you need to tether your phone to your Mac or use mobile data through a hotspot, you don’t want to waste it on background apps and such. You could go and stop every app separately, or just grab TripMode. It’ll show you a list of all the apps that are using the Internet, and let you switch them on and off with a toggle.

It costs a pretty penny for what it does, but its simplicity would be worth it if you often use mobile data with your Mac. There’s a free trial also at the link below, if you want to try it out first.

What’s Your Mac App of the Year?

I don’t tend to use weather apps, so I’m going to pick Helium as the most impressive app of 2015 on Mac. What about you?

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Change swipe gesture from archive to delete in Apple's Mail apps | Dramel Notes

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In my experience, the Mail apps for iOS and OS X defaulted to different actions for swiping to delete or archive email messages. A swipe to the left on my iPhone brings up the archive button, and a swipe to the left on my Mac brings up the trash button. Time to get these two actions in sync.

Since I feel no need for an email archive, I just want a simple delete command on all Mail fronts. So, I need to change the setting on my iPhone from archive to delete. I will also show you how to change the setting on a Mac, however, while we are on the topic.

On iOS, head to Settings > Mail, Contacts, Calendars and select one of the email accounts you have set up in Mail. Next, go to Account > Advanced and in the Move Discarded Messages Into area, select either Deleted Mailbox or Archive Mailbox.

Screenshot by Matt Elliott/CNET

On OS X, open the Mail app and go to Mail > Preferences. On the Viewing tab, you can choose either Trash or Archive for Swipe Left To.

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How to Calibrate Your Monitor on Windows or Mac | Dramel Notes

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Modern desktop operating systems like Windows and Mac OS X offer built-in tools for calibrating your display‘s brightness, contrast, gamma, and color levels. This can help make text more readable and give images and videos more accurate colors.

Sure, digital photography professionals will want to use colorimeters to do this. But, if you don’t have such a tool and just want to make some quick adjustments, you can just do it with your eye.

Before performing any of these steps, ensure you’re using your display’s native resolution.

Use Your Monitor’s On-Screen Controls

If you have a monitor with on-screen controls, you can do this just by pressing those buttons. But it’s hard to adjust options without anything to go by. Use the Lagom LCD monitor test pages (or a similar online tool) and you’ll have on-screen test patterns that you can look at while calibrating the various settings. Go through the pages one by one and they’ll explain what you need to look for when adjusting the various settings on your monitor.

If you don’t have such on-screen buttons — let’s say you have a laptop, for example — you can also use the tools built into Windows and Mac OS X.

Windows 10, 8.1, 8, and 7

Windows has had a built-in display-calibration tool since Windows 7. To open it, launch the Control Panel. On Windows 10 or 8.1, you can do this by right-clicking the Start button and selecting “Control Panel”.

Click “Hardware and Sound” in the Control Panel window, click “Display”, and then click the “Calibrate color” link at the left side of the Display control panel.

You can also open the Start menu, type “calibrate” into the search box, and click the “Calibrate display color” shortcut that appears to launch the calibration tool directly.

The Display Color Calibration tool will appear. This tool will walk you through adjusting the various options — gamma, brightness, contrast, and color balance — explaining what option means and what you’re looking for when adjusting each option. Windows does a good job of explaining what you need to know, so just read along as you go through the wizard.

Mac OS X

Mac OS X has its own display calibration tool built-in. To open it, click the Apple menu on the menu bar at the top of your screen and select “System Preferences”. Click the “Displays” option in the list.

Click the “Color” tab at the top of the window, and then click the “Calibrate” button.

This opens the Apple Display Calibrator Assistant. It will walk you through calibrating the display’s various settings, explaining what you need to know and how to select the ideal option on the way. Different settings may be available on different displays. The assistant will explain what you need to know and what you should look for when adjusting various settings.


Modern Linux desktop environments may have display-and-color calibration built into their control panels, too. Of course, if you’re using a Linux desktop, you can also just load the color calibration web pages and adjust the settings on your monitor itself.

Chromebooks and Chromeboxes don’t have any built-in tools for this as it’s just not integrated into Chrome OS. If you’re using a Chromebook with an external monitor or a Chromebox, however, you can use the above web pages and adjust the settings using the buttons on the monitor itself.

Image Credit: Denelson83 at Wikipedia

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How to Write to NTFS Drives on a Mac | Dramel Notes

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Mac OS X can read from NTFS drives, but it can’t write to them unless you use one of the below tricks. We highly recommend paying for a third-party NTFS driver if you need to do this as the other solutions don’t work as well and are more work to set up.

This could be useful if you want to write to a Boot Camp partition on your Mac, as Windows system partitions must use the NTFS file system. However, for external drives, you should probably use exFAT instead. OS X can natively read and write to exFAT drives, just like Windows can.

Three Options

There are several options for this, and you’ll need to choose one:

  • Paid Third-Party Drivers: There are third-party NTFS drivers for Mac that you can install, and they’ll work quite well. These are paid solutions, but they’re easy to install and reportedly offer better performance than the free solutions below.
  • Free Third-Party Drivers: There are also free and open-source NTFS drivers you can install on a Mac to enable write support. Unfortunately, these take a bit of extra work to install, especially on OS X 10.11 El Capitan with the new System Integrity Protection feature. They may also not work as well as paid solutions, and may be slower.
  • Apple’s Experimental NTFS-Write Support: Mac OS X includes experimental support for writing to NTFS drives. However, it’s off by default and requires some messing around in the terminal to enable it. It isn’t guaranteed to work properly and could potentially cause problems with your NTFS file system — we really don’t recommend using this.

Paid Third-Party Drivers – The Easiest, But It’ll Cost You

Paragon NTFS for Mac costs $19.95 and offers a ten-day free trial. It’ll install cleanly and easily on OS X 10.11 El Capitan and “just work”, so it’s a good option if you’re willing to pay some money for this feature.

If you have a Seagate drive you want to write to, be aware that Seagate offers a free download of Paragon NTFS for Mac so you won’t have to purchase anything extra.

You could also purchase Tuxera NTFS for Mac, which costs $31 and offers a fourteen-day free trial.

Free Third-Party Drivers – It’s Free, But Takes Some Extra Work

This method is free, but it requires a good bit of work. To do this, you’ll have to disable System Integrity Protection and then re-enable if after you’re done.

First, download osxfuse and install it.

Second, download and install homebrew if you haven’t already installed it on your Mac. Homebrew is a “package manager” for Mac OS X

You’ll need the command-line tools installed to continue. If you haven’t installed them yet, you can open a Terminal window from Applications > Utilities and run the following command to do so:

xcode-select –install

Once you have, run the following command in a Terminal window to install ntfs-3g from Homebrew:

brew install homebrew/fuse/ntfs-3g

Next, you’ll need to disable System Integrity Protection. Reboot your Mac and hold Command+R while it’s booting. It’ll boot into a special recovery mode environment.

Launch a terminal from the Utilities menu in recovery mode and run the following command:

csrutil disable

Once you have, reboot your Mac normally.

From the Mac desktop, open a Terminal window again and run the following commands to make ntfs-3g function:

sudo mv /sbin/mount_ntfs /sbin/mount_ntfs.original

sudo ln -s /usr/local/sbin/mount_ntfs /sbin/mount_ntfs

Lastly, re-enable System Integrity Protection. Reboot your Mac and hold Command+R while it’s booting to enter recovery mode. Launch a terminal in recovery mode and run the following command:

csrutil enable

Once you have, reboot your Mac. NTFS-write support should be functioning now.

To undo your changes and uninstall everything, you’ll need to first disable System Integrity Protection. After you do, run the following commands:

sudo rm /sbin/mount_ntfs

sudo mv /sbin/mount_ntfs.original /sbin/mount_ntfs

brew uninstall ntfs-3g

You can then uninstall FUSE for OS X from its panel in the System Preferences window and re-enable System Integrity Protection

Apple’s Experimental NTFS-Writing Support – The Least Stable, Don’t Do This

We don’t recommend the below method because it’s the least tested. This might not work properly — don’t blame us or Apple if you experience problems.

First, be sure that your drive has a convenient single-word label. If it doesn’t, change its label. This will make this process easier.

You’ll first need to launch a terminal. Navigate to Applications > Utilities > Terminal or press Command+Space, type Terminal, and press Enter.

Type the following command into the terminal to open the /etc/fstab for editing in the nano text editor:

sudo nano /etc/fstab

Add the following line to nano, replacing “NAME” with the label of your NTFS drive:

LABEL=NAME none ntfs rw,auto,nobrowse

Press Ctrl+O to save the file after you’re done, and then press Ctrl+X to close nano.

(If you have multiple NTFS drives you want to write to, add a different line for each.)

Connect the drive to the computer  — unplug it and reconnect it if it’s already connected — and you’ll see it under the “/Volumes” directory. In a Finder window, you can click Go > Go to Folder and type “/Volumes” into the box to access it. It won’t pop up automatically and appear on your desktop like drives normally do.

To undo this change later, just repeat the above process to open the /etc/fstab file in nano. Delete the line you added to the file and save your changes.


Most Mac users will be better off formatting external drives with exFAT, ensuring they work well on both Windows and Mac OS X without any extra work. if you must write to an NTFS drive, one of the paid, third-party drivers will be the best-performing, least-effort option.

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How to Change Passwords on Any Device (Windows, Mac, Smartphone) | Dramel Notes

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It may seem like a simple thing, but changing your password is a fact of life, and knowing how to do it is something we here at How-To Geek generally take for granted, but the question is: do you know how to change your password?

Changing your password regularly may not be the best course of action, but changing it to something strong and hard to crack or guess is.

It’s a fairly routine process once you know what you’re doing, but assuming that everyone knows exactly how it’s done doesn’t make it so. Today, we want to show you how to change your password on Windows (7, 8.1 & 10), OS X, Android, and iOS (iPhone and iPad).

We hope then, armed with this new knowledge, that you’ll take a moment to change your password on your devices because while it isn’t the most secure method of locking out snoops and hackers, it is still often the first and only line of defense against them.

Changing Your Password on Windows

To change your password on Windows, you will need to go through the following steps.

Windows 7

Wndows 7 is still the choice of a vast majority of Windows users and as such, needs to be addressed first. To change you password, you’ll first need to open the Control Panel and click “User Accounts”.

In your user account screen, click “Change your password”.

You will first need to enter your current password and then you can change it to the new one.

Let’s move on next to Windows 8.1, which has an entirely different way of going about things.

Windows 8.1

With the introduction of the Windows 8.x Start screen and the “Metro” style interface, the method of changing your password was moved entirely to PC settings.

In the PC settings, click on “Accounts”.

On the Accounts screen, click the “Change” button under the Password heading.

You will first need to enter your current password.

Once you enter your current password, you can then change it to something new.

Up next is Windows 10, which isn’t entirely different from Windows 8.1.

Windows 10

In Windows 10, the PC settings are now simply called Settings, and the way to change your password is still located in the Accounts section.

In the Accounts section, click on “Sign-in options” and then click “Change” under the “Password” heading.

Assuming you’re using a Microsoft account, you’ll immediately be prompted to enter your current password before you can proceed.

Once you enter your Microsoft account password, you’ll again be prompted to enter your old password and then you can change it to your new password.

If you use a local account on either Windows 8.1 or Windows 10, the procedure will be almost entirely identical. Simply go to the Accounts section in the PC settings or Settings, respectively, click “Change” in the Password section, and follow the prompts.

Changing Your Password on OS X

Changing your password on OS X is cinch and should only take a few seconds. First open the System Preferences and then click on “Users & Groups”.

Now, you should see your account Password screen where you can click the “Change Password…” button.

If you want to use your iCloud password to log into and unlock your Mac, you can do so at the next dialog, however, for our purposes we’re just going to change the local password on our machine’s user account so we’ll click “Change Password…” when prompted.

Simply now fill in the blanks. Enter your old password and then the new one. If you’re having a hard time thinking of a new password, then click the key icon next to the “New password” box for a handy password generator.

It’s as simple as that to change your password on your computer(s). Let’s move on now to smartphone and tablets.

Changing Your Password on Android

Android doesn’t really press you to add security to your device, which we think is a bad thing. You should always have some kind of screen lock just in case you lose your phone or it gets stolen.

To add or change your device’s screen lock, first open the Settings and tap open the “Security” option.

On the next screen, you will see the “Screen lock” option. Tap that open to add or change your device’s accessibility.

You’ll have three options to choose from (we don’t recommend None or Swipe). Out of all three, the Pattern is probably our preferred method but you can also choose a PIN or a traditional Password to unlock your device.

Finally, let us move on to iOS, which takes device security far more seriously than Android, in our opinion.

Changing Your Passcode on iPhone or iPad

If you’re using a recent iPhone 5 or later, then you’ll have the wonderful option of Touch ID to unlock your device, but you will still need to enter your passcode from time to time such as when you restart.

To change your passcode, first open the Settings and then tap open “Touch ID & Passcode”.

You will immediately need to enter your passcode before you can proceed.

Scroll down until you see the passcode options. You can either turn the passcode off (not recommended) or you can change it.

When you change your passcode, you will again be prompted to enter your old one.

Once you do that, you will need to enter a new one.

Note, there are also options to use a different type of passcode such as an alphanumeric code, which is a traditional password, a custom numeric code, or if you’re using iOS 9, you can resort the older and less secure 4-digit passcode (not recommended).

Knowing how to change or even add passwords to your devices is smart and often necessary. Unfortunately, device makers typically don’t make this obvious and as such, users often use the same method of accessing their devices for as long as they own them.

To that end, it’s up to you to make your device’s security your personal goal. The chances or your devices being “hacked” or broken into depends entirely on how careful you are with it, and the complexity of the security you’ve put into place.

Don’t be complacent about this, much of your life is contained within a very small item that can easily be lost or stolen.

We hope this article was useful to you and you now feel confident changing your passwords on your computer, phone, or tablet. If you have any questions or comments you would like to contribute, please leave your feedback in our discussion forum.

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How to Manually Add or Remove Wi-Fi Networks from OS X | Dramel Notes

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One of the things that OS X does is save every Wi-Fi network you connect to. This is great if you go from Wi-Fi network to Wi-Fi network and don’t want to enter your credentials each and every time, but it does have a downside.

For one, if you connect to a network with a common name, such as “xfinitywifi” then your computer might connect to that network whenever it is available.

Another example, let’s say your network isn’t immediately available and you’ve connected to another network across the street. However, that network’s signal is weak and though you can connect to it, it’ll be frustratingly slow. Furthermore, you may even realize immediately what has happened so you won’t understand why your Internet access is so darned slow.

Today we want to show you how to add and remove Wi-Fi networks on OS X so that these kind of situations don’t occur. Furthermore, it’s very advisable that you go through and prune your saved network from time to time so if you have a bunch of old ones in your list, then it may be time to clean house.

Removing Networks

To begin, first open the network preferences and click the “Advanced” button.

With the advanced panel open, make sure you’re on the Wi-Fi tab and choose the network for which you no longer have any use and click the “-” button.

If you want to select multiple networks at once, hold the “Command” key and click on each network you want to delete.

A warning dialog will appear asking you to confirm, click “Remove” to delete the network from your saved list.

Again, we recommend going through and giving your saved networks a good proper cleaning from time to time.

Adding Networks

Adding networks, such as if you need to add a hidden network is as simple as clicking the “+” and entering the necessary information.

You will need to enter the SSID or network name and choose the type of security (WEP, WPA/WPA2, etc.).

Now, when you connect to this network, you will need to enter a password (if the network has security). Obviously, since you entered the network manually, it will already be saved but now you know how to delete it.

You may have noticed in previous screenshots that you can drag networks into the order your prefer, which means that if you do have a multiple networks saved and you don’t want to delete any, then you can rearrange them, which we discuss at greater length in this earlier article.

Note, we’ve also talked about how to manually remove saved networks from a Windows 8.1 computer if you also use that platform.

If you have any questions or comments you would like to contribute to this article, please leave your feedback in our discussion forum.

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How to Add More Remote File Systems to Your Chromebook’s Files App | Dramel Notes

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By default, the Files app on Chrome OS provides access to your Google Drive storage online and the Downloads folder, which is your Chromebook’s local storage. But Google’s made it possible to extend the Files app with more cloud storage services and remote file servers, including Windows file shares.

Set this up and you’ll have easy access to other remote file systems. They’ll appear in the Files app and in your Chromebook’s standard “Open” and “Save” dialogs. You can drag-and-drop files between them, too.

How It Works

You’ll need to find new types of file systems in the Chrome Web Store. These are Chrome apps that use the “chrome.fileSystemProvider” API to integrate with the operating system, just like Google Drive does by default. This was introduced with Chrome OS 40.

How to Find More File System Providers

To find more file system providers, first open the “Files” app on your Chromebook. You’ll find it under the launcher menu — just tap the “Search” button on the keyboard and search for “Files” or click “All Apps” and look for the icon.

Google has made this more obvious now with a quick link in the Files app. Click “Add  new services” in the sidebar and select “Install new from the webstore” to go directly to the Chrome Web Store.

You’ll see a list of available services, and you can install them by clicking the “Install” button. Currently, you can install providers that provide access to Dropbox, OneDrive, Windows local network file shares (SMB), Secure FTP (SFTP), WebDAV, Google Cloud Storage, and a few other protocols.

File system providers like SMB, SFTP, and WebDAV are particularly useful, allowing you to access types of remote file systems that wouldn’t normally be accessible with a web browser. It’s now possible to access those shared Windows folders on a Chromebook, although it didn’t used to be.

It doesn’t appear in this list, but there’s also an official “Box for Chrome OS Beta” app that integrates Box.com storage with Chrome OS’s Files app. Another proof-of-concept app will provide a list of TED talks in your Files app. You may find others by searching the Web Store, too.

After you install the app, you’ll need to launch it and provide your credentials. After you authenticate, that file system will be integrated with your Chromebook’s Files app.

The Problem With This Feature: Developers Are Still Neglecting Chrome Apps

You’ll notice one big problem with this feature. Google has done the hard work of extending Chrome OS and its app APIs to make this possible, but most of the apps here — aside from Box.com’s beta app — are unofficial. Dropbox and Microsoft OneDrive haven’t gone out of their way to create apps that integrate their storage services with Chrome OS’s Files app, so they may not work as well as official apps would.


This lack of attention to apps isn’t anything new for Chrome OS. While Chrome OS works well at providing a powerful browser you can use to access the web, developers haven’t really jumped into Google’s Chrome app ecosystem. Rather than making Chrome-specific apps and integrating with your Chromebook’s Files app, they’d rather just work on their full websites and encourage you to open Dropbox or OneDrive in your web browser instead.

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AirDroid 3 Brings The Best Of iOS to Android | Dramel Notes

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Get Ready For Wireless File Transfer And AirMirror   Mac OS X Yosemite brings wireless communication between Mac and iOS 8 devices with the Continuity feature. Now Android users can enjoy the same feature thanks to AirDroid 3.   The latest version got a major update allowing your Android phone to connect to your Mac or desktop PC so that you can answer phone calls and reply to text messages remotely. AirDroid 3 helps to make everything work wirelessly.   Here are some of the most interesting features that AirDroid 3 brings for its users.   Compatible with both Mac and Windows Previously, you have to communicate with your Android device from your Mac or Windows PC browser. Now, AirDroid 3 comes with its own free desktop client. You will be able to receive notifications of your Android devices right from your desktop.   You can download the client from its official website then download the free app from your Android phone or tablet, and you are good to go. Once you login to the same account from both your desktop client and Android device, the mobile app will ask permission to access your notifications. It’s as simple as that and your notifications will appear on your desktop.   Notifications Once you have granted AirDroid permission, your notifications will appear on your desktop alongside your other windows. In settings, you can choose which app’s notification to be displayed on your desktop, so you can turn off those that you do not want to bother you.   For phone calls and SMS, apart from seeing who’s calling and texting you, you can actually accept calls and pick up your phone to start chatting. You can even reject calls from the pop-up alert or mute the phone from your desktop.   Transfer of files to and from your desktop wirelessly with AirDroid. Reply to text with a full keyboard and control with a mouse. AirDroid helps you get rid of those cables and make everything work wirelessly.   Screen mirroring Here is the coolest feature. AirMirror feature lets you mirror your entire device on your desktop. You will be able to see and use your entire device from your computer screen. You can reply to text messages, send messages via Whatsapp, play games, and literally everything that you can do on your device right from your desktop.   AirMirror is still in beta and will only work on a rooted phone but this feature is really neat especially for hardcore Android users.
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